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Todra Gorge Rock Climbing – A Complete Beginners Guide

Todra Gorge Rock Climbing , situated on the south side of the Atlas mountain range, emerges as a captivating limestone gorge with walls rising 200 vertical meters. Before Tafraout and Taghia, Todra was synonymous with rock climbing in Morocco.

Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a curious adventurer, Tafraout offers an array of experiences that will leave an indelible mark on your climbing journey.

Jebel Kest Summit

Climbing in the Todra Gorge: A Premier Sport Climbing Destination

Summary: Todra Gorge stands as one of Morocco’s premier sport climbing destinations, boasting approximately 400 climbs. From single-pitch top-ropes to 10-pitch adventures, the incredible walls of this narrow gorge cater to climbers of all levels. The fixed protection on popular sectors is excellent, and there are thrilling mixed sport/trad routes for those seeking more adventure.

When to Go: Todra enjoys reliable sunshine, pleasant temperatures, and minimal rain, making it an ideal winter escape. The prime climbing seasons are from September to November and February to May, although climbing is possible year-round.

Getting There: Marrakech, the nearest international airport, connects to major European cities. From Marrakech, buses to the town of Tinghir (15km from the gorge entrance) are available. Taxis from Tinghir to the gorge are convenient, ensuring easy access.

Accommodation: Numerous hotels, riads, and guest houses dot the road between Tinghir and the gorge. Hotel Yasmina, in the heart of climbing and within walking distance of most sectors, is a popular choice. Other options include Hotel Mansour and Hotel La Vallee at the gorge entrance, while those seeking luxury can explore Kasbah Lamrani in Tinghir.

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Maps and Guidebooks: Navigating the Climbing Paradise

Maps: An overview map showcasing Todra Gorge’s location, along with other main climbing areas like Taghia and Tafraout, can be found on mountainproject.com

Guidebooks: Historically, route information for the gorge was elusive, but the new OAC pocket topo now serves as the most reliable source. It is available for purchase from the Guidebook and Download Store.

Climb Todra: For additional information, visit the sister site mountainproject.com

First Impressions: Discovering Todra’s Magic

 

Initial Skepticism:

The author’s first encounter with Todra was met with skepticism, being a traditional climber at heart. The journey from Tafraout to Tinghir, armed only with digital photographs as navigation aids, raised doubts. The transition from perfect quartzite to limestone choss seemed disheartening.

The Pillier de Couchant Revelation:

As the landscape steepened, the Pillier de Couchant revealed itselfโ€”a majestic, clean rock rising a thousand feet straight up from the road. Doubts dissolved, replaced by a determination to climb the Couchant, a route that transcended the typical sport climbing experience.

Accommodation at Hotel Yasmina:

Accommodations at Hotel Yasmina, while peculiar, situated worryingly close to overhanging rocks, added to the surreal experience. The noisy diesel generator, powering the hotel, and the unique meal times contributed to the memorable stay.

here are other accommodations to consider if your are in tight budget.ย 

Climbing Experiences:

Over three days, the author explored Todra’s climbing diversity, scaling Plage Mansour, Petite Gorge, and tackling a mandatory adventure up the main gorge wall. Despite reservations about sport climbing, Todra’s wild, adventurous ambiance and well-thought-out bolted routes left a lasting impression.

Challenges in Main Gorge:

The main gorge’s bustling atmosphere, with traders setting up stalls on climbing routes, presented challenges. However, ascending a few pitches above the road offered a true taste of Todra’s rugged, desolate landscape, away from tourist crowds.

The Classique Triumph:

The pinnaclesport climbs. The granite mountains surrounding Tafraout create a playground for climbers of all levels, with numerous crags and bouldering opportunities waiting to be explored.

The Anti-Atlas Charm:

Set against the backdrop of the Anti-Atlas mountains, Tafraout captures the essence of Moroccan climbing. The intricate rock formations, vibrant landscapes, and welcoming local culture add to the allure of this climbing haven.

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Local Information and Where to Stay:

For climbers planning their Tafraout adventure, local information is key. The town offers a range of accommodations, from guesthouses to hotels. The vibrant atmosphere and proximity to climbing areas make Tafraout an ideal base for exploration.

Maps and Guidebooks:

Navigating the climbing routes around Tafraout is made easier with detailed maps and guidebooks. These resources provide valuable insights into the region’s top climbing spots, helping climbers make the most of their Tafraout experience.

Jebel El Kest: A Peak Worth Exploring:

Jebel El Kest, a prominent peak near Tafraout, beckons climbers with its challenging routes and panoramic views. Climbing in this area offers a mix of adventure and breathtaking scenery, making it a must-visit for enthusiasts.

Trip Planner:

Planning a climbing trip to Tafraout requires careful consideration of routes, weather, and local logistics. Creating an itinerary that aligns with the climber’s preferences ensures a fulfilling and memorable experience.

Gallery:

The visual appeal of Tafraout extends beyond climbing. The gallery captures the beauty of the landscapes, the thrill of climbing, and the vibrant culture that defines this Moroccan climbing destination.

Contact and Sale:

Connecting with local guides and services enhances the climbing experience in Tafraout. Whether seeking guidance on routes or looking for climbing gear, establishing contact ensures a smooth and enjoyable stay.

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Climbing in the Anti-Atlas: Unveiling Taghia’s Big Walls

Taghia: A Climbing Paradise:

Taghia, with its towering big walls, stands as a climbing paradise within the Anti-Atlas. Accessible by a challenging hike, Taghia rewards climbers with unparalleled routes and an immersive alpine experience.

Big Wall Climbing:

Taghia’s big walls present a unique challenge for climbers. The sheer rock faces, coupled with the remote and rugged setting, create an environment that demands both skill and determination.

Adventure Beyond Climbing:

Taghia isn’t just about climbing; it’s a journey into the heart of the Anti-Atlas. The trek to reach this climbing haven adds an adventurous element, making the entire experience a blend of exploration and ascent.

Local Culture and Hospitality:

Exploring Taghia goes beyond the vertical ascent. Engaging with the local Berber culture, experiencing traditional hospitality, and savoring Moroccan cuisine contribute to a holistic climbing adventure.

The Allure of Moroccan Climbing

Moroccan climbing, whether in the Todra Gorge, Tafraout, or Taghia, is a tapestry woven with adventure, tradition, and natural beauty. Each destination offers a distinct climbing experience, creating memories that linger long after the ascent.

As you plan your climbing journey in Morocco, immerse yourself in the diverse landscapes, connect with the local climbing community, and embrace the fusion of adventure and tradition that defines this captivating corner of the climbing world. Whether scaling the limestone walls of Todra, exploring the granite peaks of Tafraout, or conquering the big walls of Taghia, Morocco beckons climbers with its unique charm and endless possibilities. Get ready to embark on a climbing odyssey that transcends the ordinaryโ€”a journey where every ascent is a chapter in the rich story of Moroccan climbing.

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